Introducing Our First Guest Route Setter - Gary Vincent
One of the exciting features for those operating above Font 7a here at TCA Glasgow is that our white circuit will be reset by a guest route setter at least 4 times a year. The privilege of setting the first round of 15 whites was given to one of the UK's up-and-coming route setters, Gary Vincent.
Nobody is laughing, Gary (on the left) is already very strong. Dan Stephenson from TCA Bristol was up too, setting the green and yellow endurance circuits.
Gary's setting work is largely concentrated at Ratho where he has gained plaudits for the quality of both his routes and boulder problems. He is one of the few route setters in the UK with the National Route Setter Qualification and was highly commended in the process. His ability to set demanding physical and technical problems has seen him recommended towards the International Route Setter Qualification which would allow him to set at IFSC World Cup standard events.
Gary has been climbing since the mid-90's, first honing his quite astonishing strength on the walls of Carnegie Leisure Centre in his home town of Dunfermline. After the arrival of Alien 2 Gary switched his focus there and only got stronger. Until a persistent finger injury took its toll, Gary was both a British Bouldering Team Member and a regular competitor on the national circuit. He isn't however just a plastic climber. He has ticked some of the hardest problems at Dumbarton Rock in super quick time, climbed Font 8a in Fontainebleau and Magic Wood. But perhaps Gary's most stand out ascent is Chris Sharma's legendary problem The Mandala, Font 8a+, in the Buttermilks, near Bishop, California.
Gary Climbing the Manadala 8A+, Bishop, California (Photo: Gustavo E Moser: www.gas-photo.net)
Given this level of credit and experience, not to mention the fact that Gary is one of the strongest boulderers operating in Scotland, he seemed like the obvious choice for our first white circuit. And a dastardly set it is too. From the, Le Super Prestat-esque, slab to the as yet unclimbed problem on the Cobra roof, there is something to test everybody. The challenge is there for all you strong bods out there to repeat them all.... before Malc (or Rob for that matter) does anyway.
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